Although it is very small, collection Obi marked this revolutionary capsule with the decisive point in the career of Galliano; Has also marked a change of paradigm, not only in the career of Galliano, but — with the ‘ clearly established Galliano vision ’, he emphasised and supported in subsequent collections that followed after that — had a profound impact on the landscape of fashion as a whole, in addition to a review. Therefore, the importance of this collection should not be underestimated. Historically, as a moment of fashion, ‘ ’ was detected immediately (and recognized) as one of the greatest — he was and still is nothing less, as a decisive step. (to place its sense in the right perspective, says Michael Specter New Yorker exaggerated once somehow correct the show “ was perhaps the most famous fashion Dior presented their new look. ”) as the American fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg, who apparently saw the show, a characteristic profile of Michael Specter 2003 by John Galliano for the New Yorker has been observed also in Fantasista, “ was actually a moment hinge in the history of modern fashion. So, we know that we have seen something which had not seen previously. The clothes were feminine, simple and sublime. I wanted to wear every single suit. ” important for Galliano and his team, a flood of orders began flooding after the presentation. the load was now in Galliano, only “ is filling [control file] ” (Michael Specter wrote), use your ‘ time ’ and to deliver the goods. It was from “, ” Galliano recalled in the same article in the New Yorker. “ I'm not or an error. It is assumed that it a very professional enterprise or is there another way to make a dress. ” (CITES: spectrum, m.,. ” (spring-summer 2008: destroyed by the loss of their dear friend and supporters a few months earlier, in May 2007, McQueen dedicated this collection in tribute to Isabella Blow), “.) Isabella Blow was more than a partner and Muse, but; He has been a mentor. “ was futurism, technical clothing, woven, as Moscow and the imaginary space of the age in his editorial shoots, Alistair ” or ’ Neill, one of the curators of the “ Isabella Blow: mode gogo!, tony ” map of London, argues. “ It was progressive, try, encouraged to push the fashion, contemporary fashion trend, but a model in the sense that they learn, she was excited by ideas and Designer, it is very important RSS feeds ” (mention: accounts, s.,.) (nee Broughton appears); A reference is therefore inevitable. Anna Piaggi (1931-2012), his Italian counterpart, Isabella Blow (1958-2007) — still known as Izzy ’ ‘ to your friends and your family — belonged to the geek ’ ‘ bird of paradise, the descent phase and the glow by fearless was the world of fashion, the pace, rather than follow someone. Although no woman can be well never described as classic ’ ‘ was however something more rare, unspeakable physical beauty rather than simply: were equipped with a sense of personal style (and eyes) were —, in the true sense of the word legendary and unique personality — (in a time where the term ‘ ’ is so rushed icon Aplicadosin distinction yet sincere consideration) — in total disregard of the Convention or convenience. (Lee McQueen described once Isabella as “ a cross between a Lucretia Borgia and Billingsgate fish market fish merchant ” [quote: Horyn, c., 2013]). was therefore made, with the creation which is Isabella, Detmar blow, searched and finally found Philip Treacy marry —, unless the Department and the Hat Cap John Galliano presented his first expected and the first — — collection of Haute Couture de Givenchy to the carousel you Louvre on the night of Sunday, January 21, 1996 — (a few months Givenchy ready-to-wear be submitted later) — in a ‘ the Princess and the pea ’ scenario. The show (“, year are the most exciting moments of the history of fashion ” [citation: Blanchard, t.,. would like Givenchy, was one of the first acts of Galliano, plunge into the Dior archives for inspiration and — free access to the valuable collection of — diving on the House and become familiar with the history and ’ House code ‘.?]) Reference — and Galliano awaited debut (—., the Isabella had met since the mid-1980s, who had originally ordered — as his assistant Tatler — recalled their first introduction by Alexander McQueen, in the 1990s, until Ms.)) Taken; She called while I was living in Paris: “ ‘ that should be a beautiful story, no doubt ’ said that one day the wave you suddenly a finger in the face. ‘ is the only hope of British fashion ’ ” (citation: Roberts, m.,.) Mr. Arnault, soon had to know at the present time, but a radical measure — method and called euphemistically Arnault put ‘ new wine in old skins ’ — and the appointment of John Galliano Givenchy rudder - control (and shortly after, Dior) indirect — — has played a decisive role in helping to create the history of fashion. (It would also strictly Isabella — request by itself, as well as other —, a true friendship and affection between Isabella and Lee, their sometimes charged relationship was acquired, especially after the designer label under the aegis of the came group Gucci one hand Alexander McQueen in December 2000, 51% of the mark), developed a bitterness on the side of Isabella, the EEA no official mission in the recently formulated company Puestoen had offered — Isabella, it is said that they have orchestrated lucrative sales originally a very a control taken by Lee rich Designer. “ ran the company in the world ” Daphne Guinness, a friend of Lee and Isabella, cited. “ Price if done first, once fell into oblivion. All other contracts and has a ” dress [posted: Horyn, c.,.] (currently the House of Vionnet design). But by far the greatest discoveries were Isabella (and protected) undoubtedly, fashion designer born in Irish Philip Treacy and Lee Alexander McQueen, whose career wasted nourished, supported and promoted. (Isabella was, for example, that the operating environment has advised — McQueen name —, Alexander ‘, ’ by the name of fashion and trademark — a comparative and associative reference alluding to the great and the story in the form of a two-mast sailboat — medium and earlier a bank increases on a black mannequin head in the bouquet of roses — coffin took that in the upper part with black velvet covered) and) that she had used in life. McQueen, Treacy and enjoy his sister Julia, dressed in his body: his coffin was wearing a Brocade of silk ABRIGO Vestido, embroidered red gold — with a Tassled hem — specifically for its McQueen; Bookmark Treacy buried creation: his famous. .) Their partnership has deepened as year Royal College of first class honors graduated 1990 Treacy — — and new, come seamstress and young set up his first workshop in the basement of the residence of the ’ Elizabeth Street in Belgravia records; He remained as the basis for the next decade. (Also Isabella of the introduction of Felipe with important people in the fashion industry - such as Manolo Blahnik and Rifat Ozbek, designer, André Leon Talley, was vogue Germany former editor in general, contributing many jobs important which one with the House of Chanel). As with McQueen, Isabella formed a deep attachment to Filippo and their relationship is one of the great creative partnerships between Musa and — creator of the company, which has suffered the death of Isabelle. History of Alexander McQueen is inextricably consultant (catalyst) and allied with the by his friend, Musa, trailer or developer,. During their talents and intuitive abilities, but the character of the larger than life by Isabella Blow — with its idiosyncratic traits ink to write in the form of his tendency to use rose or sign their letters with a red seal his lips bearing his signature Chanel Coromandel ’ ‘ red — red was a tormented soul. Manic-depression, had trouble with the debilitating effects of depression for many years, apparently due to problems with money (who deny got more than 1 million was from his father, who left only £ 5,000 for the inheritance of an accused person at the time of his death in 1993), reinforced by the sterility (in order to realize a fertilization immediately in-vitro-Bambinoaveva to eight OcasionesPero unsuccessful treatments). Replaced by elsewhere a black Pug named Alfie ’ ‘ for their lack of — children and been on medication (which also claims that they have been treated with therapy ECT); towards the end of his life, his depression was aggravated by the diagnosis of cancer of the ovary. (Recently in an interview with the Telegraph Lucy Cavendish, Philip Treacy, noting on its connection with Isabella Blow and after his death cited other reasons for depression in the last months of his life — the loss of the object and the feeling of insignificance a reluctance in old age: “ you don't mind.)) Its flamboyance and humor and warmth, Isabella had really low self-esteem. Very few people have to do. He also had the still older thing. I hated. Before his death, she told me that she felt as if she remains somewhat in the fashion world. It is not true. But she had never had when he was alive. There were many and worked so hard. She has never claimed a single price the careers of many young people who do not have no chance without them won. ” [Quote: Cavendish, l.,.] As a privileged (and respected) scenario for creative designers international, models, and some icons of culture pop around the world, artists, actors, writers and filmmakers, SHOWstudio, during its fourteen year history, works with some of the most famous personality (and the future planet): designer Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons (promotion less a few Conosciutigiovane — designer Giles DeaconGareth Pugh) (Rodarte and Mary Katrantzou) — you a platform for showcase their talent and immediately the collections to a global audience at the global level); Patitz acquired iconic models such as Kate Moss (the Muse of many designers) and source of inspiration for many during his long career, Alek Wek, Lily Cole and Tatiana. and Tracey Emin, Björk, Lady Gaga, Brad Pitt, celebrities represent art, music and films of the world — and Nick Knight and SHOWstudio team on innovative projects (visionary creation “ to explore all facets of mobile fashion, graphic design, illustration, photography and content of the word written in line, ”). ’ — the explosion of the year 2011! (Documentary by Channel 4, was released a year later and the first anniversary of the death of the — Designer provides a comprehensive overview of the life of Alexander McQueen as well as career and his sometimes stormy relationship with Isabella Blow.). (Interior Designer, who has been his career in 1972 at the height of “ most expensive decorator in the world ’ ”) — its Paris building five floors located in the rue Férou, near the Jardin du Luxembourg (as well as the.) (when he is specialized on the design of the cover on the way to primary school, registered), arrived one day in the offices of the Tatler, where Isabella was editor of the style, with one of their parts of the head — Hat felt a green with toothed scan page — Michael Roberts, Director of the magazine parade at the moment (what is needed for an article entitled the green with a Green Hat but can't find not): “ thought she was amazing, ” Treacy recalled his first show coup d ' état, found, even in this case, leave an indelible imprint of their appearance, to his memory. “ Was not like any other — an extravagant comfortably and she loved hats. Done a lot for them, and he wore it all the time, but it treated terribly. He sat down, lost or chew their dogs, but it pushed me to do things with it. I wanted to love, I love you ” (quote: Cavendish, l.,.) (Founder of kick Isabella Foundation, the means of subsistence, through grants, young talents of the flower in the form of increases in art and fashion student — a tribute and a continuation of Isabelle — heritage and research in mental health and depression to facilitate); Guinness are bought collection (collection containing clothing and ninety and fifty hats McQueen Treacy, as well as portraits by renowned photographer Mario Testino and Karl Lagerfeld) lots of the icon in June 2010, a few months before, it was planned, auctioned and scattered — always — September 15, 2010, at Christie, in London, in order to preserve for posterity. (“ Isabella Blow: mode gogo! ” this is not the first exhibition to invent Isabella Blow and the influence of — and his respectful love for fashion and hairstyles.) In 2002 the. Suicide TAPI at the bottom of a family tends to become a priority; Isabella, there are at least two examples: his grandfather, the infamous Sir Henry John “ ” Jock appears Broughton suspected once (and numbers) Josslyn Victor Hay, Earl of Erroll in Kenya on January 24, 1941 killed his much younger wife, mistress and suicide later in a hotel in Liverpool (although it loads; acquitted was later murder famous case was told in the book of James Fox 1982 “ white Mischief ”); There is the father-in-law of the end, Isabella, Jonathan Blow, himself the ancestor shooting families had poisoned near Painswick in Gloucestershire. ), with his face, sometimes almost completely in the dark. (Hats was part of the image and identity of Isabelle — and his psyche: “.) But where Galliano with romantic nostalgia, McQueen was intentionally provocative: enemies of women, ” “ “ ” “ fear, nasty, obscene ” “ ” all the technical terms of the press for the images of their presentations were (aggressive and seemingly always violent). (A été la première collection McQueen supérieures, pour automne / hiver 1993 / 1994, chauffeur de taxi ” “ à l'hôtel Ritz en une seule couche.)) This collection was presented to McQueen, which would be his infamous Bumster pants ” “, cut-very low on the hips extend the fuselage line. the Bumster ” only “ would have received up to now in the following seasons: “ nihilism, ” spring-summer 1994; Banshee, ” “ fall / winter 1994-1995 — where Isabella Blow walked the catwalk McQueen and “ birds —, ” McQueen tribute to Alfred Hitchcock, the great Director.) (Source:., where the Knight and his wife, three-and-a-half show every year), to begin the work of architect David Chipperfield, 1993, — has worked with Knight in the 1980s and early 1990 to build the first House would be Knights and with whom he work once again, for a second home in the 1990s and early 2000 build — in the Kraftwerkeine of the permanent installation at the Museum of natural historywhich explores the relationship between humans and plants. During his stay at the Museum Ritter has worked closely with the American conservative. During campaigns for Dior Ritter von — (under the creative direction of Galliano) — are probably the most visible (and international trade) until today not less important its collaboration were (conventional) with Alexander McQueen — many of them appeared in the magazine editorials and articles. The main difference is that while the Knights and the work of Galliano had parametric with a long and legendary history, a fountain with McQueen House, Knight had the opportunity, not only with a designer life, directly new job — a young designer was also the founder of a new — at home, but the Knight presented the opportunity, the images of the mark of two designers and (almost) on the scene at the first House, from the outset. More importantly, Alexander McQueen was a determinant — creator, with an orthodox sense of appreciation (e) — beauty with a well-defined notion what should be its projected image (staff) in the world, but also a certain vision (and address) for your home. , boldly proclaim glamour ‘ ’ is in large white letters, history of the Knights, created fashion photos of Linda Evangelista on red background — used a black suit by Karl Lagerfeld and wielded a gun Flash in a reinterpretation of the glamorous “ borrowed from the work of the 70s by Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin and Chris von Wangenheim ” — with photo flash ring. One fell swoop, British Vogue cover Knight-launch of the album marked the end of the ‘. British designer John Galliano has conducted military campaigns or wars are won on the field of battle, but his career — in all its brilliance and blunders — is spectacular with its masterpieces of unimaginable success and depth of collapse of the dome of combat and the loss of any rule. It is a testimony to the impermanence of happiness. A talent of her caliber — — and attitude is not only unique in the annals of the history of fashion, it seems, maybe once in a generation, but magnificent in its scope: several times the Galliano — race with Alexander McQueen — was responsible for many ‘ moments of ’ mode in 1990 and in the first decade of the 21st century to develop. For all his brilliant painting by glamour, as a company, the fashion industry can be extremely corrosive; He tends a progressive speculative uncertainty (and magnifying glass), image and other deep insecurity as a field for validation with their incessant need for confirmation and praise. With the fashion pressure system (creative exhaustion, collections each season in anticipation of the addition of each new collection before having to sort to produce) load — together to create and maintain a global brand — are huge and continuing at the same time, many in the laying sector on these — in addition to this type of pressure that accompany mental disorders such as depression — by turning to drugs or alcohol: Addiction is obviously coping mechanism by hand; as it the case with Steven Robinson, Isabella Blow, Alexander McQueen (among others), sometimes with fatal consequences. Also in common Piaggi, the coup was an appointment in the international fashion circuit in one of its multifunctionality as an editor of a fashion magazine — at one time or another, worked for Vogue America (where he began his career in 1980 as Assistant to Anna Wintour ’ in vogue America — the two women have been introduced together), a friend of Bryan Ferry Mutuomusico — where they would have been cleaning have Ms.) Wintour desk with Perrier water and Chanel perfume. (before its implementation of Isabelle had initially moved to New York 1979 to study ancient Chinese art at Columbia University), Tatler (after his return to London, 1986), British Vogue (1993) and the Sunday Times Style magazine (from 1997 to 2001, where his position was Director of the Steering mode finally returned to Tatler as its mode) — (consultant for companies such as z. B) if Isabellahis friendship with McQueen had done and his company (and friendship) in 1992 began, he met Philip Treacy for several years. The Hatter and famous Philip, met his boss / Muse earlier in the year 1989, when he was still unknown in London. the designer noted Renaissance-esque feelings in the decade from 1980 to 1990 for his very romantic designs Ethereal (an aesthetic sensibility, has estimated the McQueen — Romeo Gigli, among the designer favorite McQueen at the time); Time of the Gigli McQueen lasted less than 12 months. After his return to London in 1990, applied McQueen lecturer for design to circumvent Court Central Saint Martins College of art and model. The Director of the fashion design program, however, McQueen, who offers him a place as a student at the school was apparently so impressed with its portfolio ’ master ’ in the village. McQueen has taken the offer — (with the help of a loan from an aunt). In 1992 Lee McQueen and complete and submit their fourteen Heads of artwork from — Arts (Magister Artium) — collection of diploma, in a proceeding that was parallel to the Joan Burstein and John Galliano in 1984 bought in its entirety — every part of it, apparently for £ 5,000 — bead, red lipstick red Crimson, smoking Isabella Blow. (as a notoriously short of money, as well as for its delicious eccentricities brand IngleseIsabella dotty, then a freelance designer dedicated to collect — a presentation on Victorian ominously entitled “ Jack Ripper stalking his victims ” and shows a small London theatre, Kensington Olympia — rate by 100 lbs.). (2013) in her encouragement and the advancement of science, such as the McQueen was always a love and fascination for birds of prey, in particular —. To this end, Isabella had classes of falconry reasons Hilles House, records of real estate in Gloucestershire read organized. And also, that Isabella has been — as Alistair or more — ’ Neill focuses the attention of Philip Treacy is that, in the United Kingdom at the end of the 18th century, models of Galleons in weapon — head on the occasion of the unstoppable British ’ victories on the high seas, as well as his mastery of the sea — trade were the rage in the fashion women of the time. (Between 1750 and 1850, thanks to the efficiency of maritime fleet was head of England in the business world). “ Two years later, in the spring of 2000, Galliano and Knight summarizes and characterized by a new lexicon of the Dior House. Reinventing the Knight challenge consisted in the new framework of the Galliano, Dior, the British on the refinement that launched her first collection in favour of the aggressive sexuality and contemporary style. based on the dynamics of the animation and graphics, animation of drawings of Dior autumn / winter 2001 / 02 and mobilize the talents of digital realignment retouch Manager [epilogue Imaging Director] Allan Knight the Dior's House with a contemporary aesthetic. Trial was old and new: with the goal wide angle for a conventional camera 8 x 10, Cavaliere stretched and exaggerated the scale of the models. With the performance of the physically most qualified models, including Gisele Bündchen, Angela Lindvall and Liberty Ross, staged the first layer of the image processing. He used some delicious film to portray enthusiastic Polaroid 8 X 10 inches, their flesh film and color for a clearer delimitation of the Galliano collection. These campaigns have been where Knight paternity full treatment essential post-production resumed — to create the fusion of photos up to twenty in a Visual tapestry that reflects the richness of the aesthetic radical Galliano layering points starting point in the history of fashion. ”. Even at school, the Galliano — intensive study (“ with an intensity of interest is the intensity of the investigation, ” as Nikolaus Pevsner, art historian and author of a synthesis of European architecture, Pelican books, academic, said [7th ed. 1963:446]) — was obvious: appears as one of its future collections, long and painstaking research examine the books of the history of fashion fashionable sample Victoria and Albert Museum, making infinitumAcquisition of knowledge about periodic costume and inspiration of historical figures as characters; Outre characters and dynamic personality as a series. ” has emerged as a major retrospective — co-curator of Alistair O'Neill and Clare Marshall — celebrates the late Isabella Blow a showcase for his — style and life expressed through clothing, hats, shoes and other accessories — stored in more than 100 pieces from their collection accumulated large wardrobe, now owned by collective and. (, As an essential part of your projected image and identity of their hats Treacy and McQueen set suitable shoes for cleats), managed to finally put an end to his life at the age of 48, Monday, may 7, 2007 ensemble: poisoned by swallowing a toxic herbicide paraquat, a few days before — (his father had suicide with the same Metodonella Casacerca even thirty years); He died in the Royal Hospital of Gloucestershire where hospitalized Saturday, 5, had been following it in the front of his sister in Hancock. (As he had created the hairstyle for her wedding, Philip Treacy has been properly equipped with a head for the funeral of Isabelle, who was held at Gloucester cathedral, the — May 15, 2007 the Cathedral itself, where married Elizabeth Detmar almost twenty years ago:,),